Thursday, October 8, 2015

Amoy


Amoy, the present day Xiamen, was also called Siming at one time by Koxinga, the great sea navigator of the Ming dynasty. Siming means "Remembering the Ming". I like the old name of Amoy. So far, I have not found where that name came from.

Amoy plays an important role in the history of Chinoys. During the years when my angkong (paternal grandfather) migrated to Manila, most people used this port to leave China. From a book written by W. Hastings Macaulay called Kathay, A Cruise in the China Seas, this was the description of Amoy in the 19th century:

"The town of Amoy presents the same features of Shanghae, and other Chinese cities: streets narrow and filthy, and  dirt abundant, an equal number of offensive smells pervade the atmosphere, and as many disgusting sights offend the eye; beggars to be sure, are not as common as at Shanghae, but the inhabitants have a squalid look, as if too lazy to beg."

I can imagine that. During that era, aside from population explosion, drought, famine and crop failure, there was also the non stop war in China for decades. From what I read, the thought at that time was: I will die if I stay, I might die if I board a ship and go overseas, but I might not.

From the documentary film "Going to South Pacific, 下南洋", it was reported that the topography of Fujian added to the challenge of living. The inward half of the province is mountainous. Only the coastal plains were suitable for agriculture. Another saying during that era is: When you go out into the sea, bring seeds and coffin. You might be stranded in an island where you need to plant something to eat, or you may need the coffin for your burial.

I now appreciate my angkong's bravery. Without him, there will not be my father nor I. I also have a sense of gratitude to the Philippines for allowing many of my angkong's countryman to find a place to settle and survive.

The picture above is a view from my hotel in Amoy in 2003. The island at the far end is Gulangyu.

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